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Salmon are a beautiful symbol of regeneration. In Spring, mature, sea-fattened salmon begin their journey of swimming upstream to spawning grounds to spawn, which can take months. When the waters begin to chill, they spawn and die soon after. The fertilized eggs hide amongst fine gravel, then hatch into fry. The fry begin their lives in freshwater, spending anywhere from months to years  growing and gaining strength before they make a return voyage to the sea. The ocean provides more feeding opportunities and the fish grow to maturity in the salty waters of the Pacific. Eventually, the cycle renews and this new generation of salmon starts swimming upstream. They’re a beautiful symbol this time of year when we are facing themes of death in the natural world. Even as many things are withering, the salmon are spawning and their jewel-like orange eggs will slowly develop in the cold waters over the winter months before they hatch in the spring. Little orange gems tucked amongst the pebbles and rocks, often protected with thin sheets of ice as alder bushes stand as sentry to guard these precious gems. 

Remember that new life is beginning even now, even though you can’t always see it. 

Remember, too, that nature still has many plentiful treasures to find and enjoy even if the landscape feels barren and cold. Put on your boots (or snowshoes) and hike out to the alder bushes, the ones that produce what look like tiny little fairy pinecones. Gather thin branches that are truly dead - they’ll be more gray in color and will crack crisply, while living branches will bend and have green just under their thin bark. Those dead sticks will give new life to the dish you are about to make! Salmon and alder are reunited on the plate, a reminder that everything is connected and life itself is cyclical. 

Our lives are like that, too. Cycles of hardship, cycles of joy, these shifts are what makes life dynamic and interesting. Often we do our most inner growing during the periods of time that feel fallow and slow. Remember that you, too, deserve to honor your own cycles. We are not built like machines; we have periods of energy and periods of rest and only your own body can communicate those needs to you. Listen. 

Alder and Spicebush Candied Smoked Salmon

Salmon makes a lovely autumnal dish since it’s so high in the fortifying proteins, minerals, and fatty acids that will prepare our bodies for winter to come. Add in the warm flavors of spicebush berries, alder smoke, and maple syrup and it becomes even more delicious. The process of making this treat takes some time, but most of that will be hands-off as the salmon cures, then smokes. It’s a great project for a weekend when you’ll be around working on other things and can check the smoker periodically. After smoking, this salmon can be served warm or chilled. Add some creme fraiche, salmon caviar, and a colorful tuile to make a beautiful presentation! (The tuile made for the slow-cooked quince works wonderfully with this recipe too.) This can be eaten on its own as an appetizer, or serve it as part of a brunch where you can eat it with bread or eggs. Remember to keep the serving sizes small since this is a particularly rich dish. 

Ingredients: 

5 pounds skinless, boneless salmon filets 

1 pound light brown sugar (about 3 ½ c.) 

½  pound coarse sea salt (about ¾  c.) 

1 tsp. Ground spicebush berries

1 Tbs. fresh grated ginger 

½ c. red wine

1 c. brown sugar

½ c. maple syrup 

Directions: 

1. Mix together the light brown sugar, sea salt, and spicebush berries, then prepare the salmon. 

2. Cut off any dark meat or fatty parts and save those for another recipe. Cut the rest of the salmon into even chunks, about 1” wide by 3” long. 

3. Pour a thin layer of the brine into an airtight container large enough to hold all the salmon pieces. Set down a layer of the salmon, then top with more brine. Continue layering until all of the salmon and brine are used up. Seal the container and refrigerate until the fish has firmed up but is still soft to the touch, about two hours. 

4. Remove the salmon pieces and pat dry with paper towels. (You can rinse first if you’d prefer less salty flavor.)  Place on a rack over a baking sheet in the fridge to allow the surface to dry out overnight. 

5. The next morning, you’re ready to start smoking! Place the salmon pieces in a smoker that hasn’t been turned on yet. Set it to low and add small pieces of foraged alder branches or the wood or chips of your choice. The salmon will slowly come up to temperature as the smoke forms. Try to keep the heat settings to  around 100-125F, which will produce lots of flavorful smoke without over-cooking or drying out the salmon pieces. 

6. While the salmon has started to smoke, mix together the ginger, red wine, brown sugar, and maple syrup for the candy glaze. Brush it on the salmon several times throughout the smoking process so that it bakes right into the salmon. Use up all the glaze. After about four hours of smoking, the salmon should feel tacky to the touch and is ready to be eaten and enjoyed! 

7. This recipe makes a lot of candied salmon (why go to all that work for a tiny serving?) It makes fantastic gifts, and can also be frozen for later enjoyment. It’ll keep in the fridge for about a week. 

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