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“Tiramisu” means “pick me up” or “cheer me up,” an apt name for such a delicious and uplifting dessert! It’s relatively new on the scene, as the modern version as we know it seems to have been invented in the 1960’s or 1970’s - albeit likely based on much earlier versions of similar treats. It’s fun to imagine the excitement this trendy new dessert must have sparked in its day, spreading from one fancy restaurant to the next! 

It certainly seduced - one of the claims surrounding its origins is that it was served as an aphrodisiac in brothels. Whether true or not, this Italian treat soon became a classic and spread like wildfire in the early 1980’s. In 1985, The New York Times’ Marian Burrows asked “How does a dessert that was barely known in New York three years ago suddenly become so popular?” As if it wasn’t already enough of a sensation, it really hit the American zeitgeist in 1993 when Tom Hanks’ character in Sleepless in Seattle knew of it only as a mysterious thing women loved. (I mean, was he wrong?) I remember tasting it at a dinner party as a child and thinking that it seemed quite sophisticated and grown up, and I must be, too, for loving it so much. 

Today, it appears to still be a beloved - if a bit retro - Italian dessert, and can be found on the menu alongside much older classics like cannolis at just about any classic Italian restaurant (and many others as well.) I don’t think it would be a huge stretch to compare the 1980’s fascination with the boozy and coffee-soaked flavors of tiramisu with the more recent cultural obsession with (dare I say it) pumpkin spice. 

Spice mixes have been created and sold for as long as the Spice Trade has been in business, so why is there such a cultural obsession with pumpkin pie spice now, and why do people have such strong opinions about it? In the U.S. in the fall, you can find pumpkin spice lattes, pumpkin spice donuts, pumpkin spice muffins, and pumpkin spice ice cream… but the list quickly gets weirder: pumpkin spice candles, pumpkin spice aftershave, even pumpkin spice ranch dressing. It’s shockingly divisive; it seems that either you love it obsessively, or you hate it with a passion. I believe that’s because it has come to represent far more than the cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, cloves, and allspice that make it up. It’s less of a flavor and more of a stereotype; that of  “basic white girl,” a long-haired, ugg boot-wearing, preppy girl or woman who gets “way too excited” about pumpkin spice lattes. Ugh. How limiting. (And if you do happen to fit into that stereotype, you enjoy that PSL!) 

I know you didn’t ask for it, but here’s my take: let people have the nice things. If someone enjoys a pumpkin spice latte, let them have it! If tiramisu is the way to your love’s heart, don’t judge them! Life is far too short to get caught up in proving our “coolness” by eschewing the things that others find pleasure in. Let it go. 

Also, you know what happens to go really well together? Tiramisu and pumpkin spice. This version is gluten-free and vegan (because those with dietary restrictions deserve tasty treats too!) and rather than coffee, it gets its richness from roasted chicory roots, because one of my personal simple pleasures is getting out into the fall sunshine and wrestling a root from the compacted soil, then filling my home with the enchanting fragrance of it roasting into something that resembles coffee, but has its own delightful charms. This recipe is about as far from “traditional” as you can get, but who cares? It’s tasty and it’s fun and it’s perfect for fall. Tender cake is layered with pumpkin mousse and amaretto coconut cream for a not-too-sweet take on this classic dessert. Top each glass with some lovely chocolate leaves and almond pumpkins for a beautiful presentation! This recipe makes about 8 servings in medium-small glasses. 

Cake: 

½ c. tapioca starch

½ c. white rice flour

¼ tsp. Xantham gum 

1 c. almond flour

2 Tbs. cornstarch

1 tsp. Baking powder

½ tsp. Baking soda

1 tsp. Finely-ground roasted chicory root 

½ tsp. Salt

½ c. coconut oil, melted

6 Tbs. maple syrup

½ c. milk of choice

2 tsp. Apple cider vinegar

1 tsp. Vanilla extract 

Drizzle:

1 cup strongly brewed chicory tea, steeped overnight and cooled. 

2 Tbs. amaretto, rum, or marsala wine 

Coconut cream: 

1 (14 oz) can coconut cream, kept refrigerated 

3 Tbs. maple syrup

2 Tbs. Amaretto or other booze 

Pumpkin cream: 

396g tofu (extra firm), drained

6 Tbs. maple syrup

1 c. canned pumpkin

½  c. vegan greek yogurt

1/4 c. melted coconut oil

Pinch of salt

1 tsp. Pumpkin pie spice

Directions: 

1. First, bake the cake. Grease a square 8” pan and line with parchment paper. Preheat the oven to 350 F. 

2. In a large bowl, mix together the dry ingredients. Add the oil, maple syrup, milk, vinegar, and vanilla and mix until just combined, then immediately pour into the cake pan. Bake for 15-18 minutes, or until lightly golden. Let cool in the pan. 

3. To make the pumpkin mousse, drain the tofu and add it to a high speed blender. Add the rest of the ingredients and blend until smooth and silky - you may need to use the push stick to ensure that everything is blended evenly. 

4. To make the coconut whipped cream, add the coconut cream to the bowl of a stand mixer, along with the maple syrup. Beat on medium until smooth and then turn the speed to high until it starts to form peaks. Add the amaretto and beat until peaks form again. 

5. To assemble your tiramisu, put both the pumpkin mousse and coconut cream into separate piping bags and snip the opening. Use a small round cutter to cut a piece of cake, then slice it in half horizontally. Place one half in one cup and the other half in another cup, then sprinkle with the brewed chicory tea - the sponge should absorb it but not become soggy. Pipe in a layer of pumpkin mousse, then a layer of coconut cream, then another round of cake. Continue this pattern until your glass is full. Repeat with the rest of your glasses. 

6. Let chill for at least 2 hours, then top with a dusting of pumpkin pie spice and the decorations, below. 

Decorations: 

These are optional, but they really elevate the presentation to something special! 

Ingredients: 

2 dark chocolate bars

Edible leaves like mint or pineapple sage

Foodsafe paintbrushes

Edible luster dusts in pink and gold 

1 package almond paste

Small bowl powdered sugar

Goji berry powder or natural food coloring

Matcha tea powder or natural food coloring

Directions: 

1. To make the chocolate leaves, chop the chocolate bars and add ⅔ of the chocolate to a microwavable bowl. Microwave in short bursts (15 seconds at a time), stirring well between until most of the chocolate is melted but it isn’t very hot. Add the rest of the chocolate and stir until it’s all melted. Some pieces may remain, that’s fine. 

2. *Tip: the reason to keep the chocolate at a lower temperature while you melt it is so that it remains “in temper.” You can also temper your chocolate another way, but I have found this method to be the easiest way to work with smaller amounts of chocolate. This will help the chocolate retain a shiny, snappy texture. 

3. Paint the textured side of your leaves with the chocolate mixture and lay on a parchment paper sheet to harden. Once the first layer is hard, paint another. Repeat until each leaf has 4 layers of chocolate painted on it. 

4. *Tip: be careful not to get the chocolate on the bottom or side of the leaf, which will make it much more difficult to peel the leaves away from the chocolate. 

5. Once the leaves have been painted in 4 layers of chocolate and hardened completely, place them in the freezer for at least 20 minutes. The leaves should then pull away easily, leaving a lovely pattern behind. You may need to use the tip of a sharp knife to gently encourage peeling in some areas. 

6. Using another clean paintbrush, dust the tips of the leaves with edible luster dust. Keep somewhere cool until you’re ready to decorate your desserts. 

7. To make the pumpkins, mix the almond paste with some goji berry powder or natural food coloring until it is the shade of orange you want. If it starts getting too sticky or oily, just knead in some powdered sugar. Set a little piece aside and knead in a pinch of matcha to turn it green. 

8. To form your pumpkins, roll the colored almond paste into little balls of varying sizes. Use the back of a butter knife to press indentations into the balls to look like a pumpkin, and poke a little indentation into the top with your finger. Form stems out of the green paste and carefully add some texture with a toothpick. These can be stored at room temperature. 

9. *Tip: try making several different shades of orange almond paste for a more realistic effect! 

10. When your tiramisu has chilled, just press the leaves into place and set three pumpkins on each glass. 

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