A feast of small dishes infused with local flavors to enjoy together, inspired by the cultural history of Idaho.

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With late summer’s busy-ness long behind, the slower days of early winter offer a lot of time for reflection. It’s a rainy day (as so many of them are this time of year) as I walk over damp pine needles, up my favorite trail near my childhood home. As I hike, I wonder: how long has this trail been here? How many feet have walked it before mine? I know that I am a relative newcomer to this land, as fresh as the drops of water hitting the fallen leaves around me. 

First, there were the Indigenous peoples of this area, mostly the Shoshone-Bannock and Nez Perce tribes. Then, there were all number of invaders, following a variety of different purposes. The French trappers and traders. The English settlers. Then, the Gold Rush, which brought a wide variety of cultures. (At one point in Idaho’s history, there were more Chinese inhabitants than any others, not that you would guess now.) Some people came and stayed; others got what they came for and moved on. All still impact the culture of this area to this day. 

In the “Melting Pot History” of the United States, it’s fascinating to me how there are pockets of certain cultures. Italian immigrants in Chicago. Jewish people in New York. Scandinavians in the Midwest. And here: the Basque people of Northern Spain. They moved here because the climate was good for sheep, and they were sheepherders. Many lived fairly solitary lives moving their sheep among the mountains, but there would always be celebrations to look forward to! The Basque people wove another layer of culture in amongst the forests and mountains, one that is still at the heart of the nearest city. As I hike, I remember the notes I took while interviewing elder historians of the area. I’m pretty sure this trail was once a sheep trail used by Basque herders. 

The colder I get under the unrelenting rain, the more I start to daydream about the little Basque market in the heart of the city, where one can find hot pintxos, good wine, and the best sheep’s cheese I’ve ever had. Daydreams of crisp patatas bravas swirl with the scent of pine trees and suddenly inspiration hits: a feast of Basque-inspired pintxos, flavored with the local plants that also call these mountains their home. A celebration in honor of the other feet that have walked this path. A hearty spread on a chilly winter day, to be eaten slowly in good company (and with plenty of wine, if that’s your thing.) Everything made to share, to nibble at, to enjoy while basking in the glow of community and feeling grateful for the chance to exist in such a flavorful world. 

All of these recipes are relatively simple to prepare. The cold or room temperature dishes can be made ahead of time, leaving just a bit of baking, frying, and toasting to do before sharing this assortment with a couple of friends. Serving suggestion: it’d be the perfect ending to a long hike in the woods. These recipes make enough to serve about 8-10 people for snacks or 6 for a full dinner.

From elsewhere: 

Candied salmon

Manchego (serve in cubes in olive oil with yarrow and thyme) 

Baguette, sliced and toasted

Roasted red pepper hummus 

Other dips or hot sauces of choice (we loved sriracha) 

Spicy Saffron Aioli

2 Tbs. lemon juice

Small pinch saffron

2 large egg yolks

2 minced garlic cloves

½ tsp. Kosher salt

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

½ c. avocado oil

½ c. olive oil 

½ Tbs. sriracha 

Directions: Put the lemon juice in a small bowl and add the saffron to the lemon juice. Let it infuse while you make the aioli. Add the egg yolks, garlic cloves, slat, and mustard to a small food processor. Blend until completely smooth. Continue blending on medium speed while slowly drizzling in the avocado oil in a thin stream. (It should incorporate into a creamy base as you add it.) Continue to slowly add the rest of both oils until you have a thick, mayonnaise-like mixture. Add the sriracha and the saffron-infused lemon juice and blend until smooth. Keep refrigerated for up to a week. 

Fir and Paprika Filberts: 

2 c. fresh filberts (Hazelnuts) 

3 Tbs. baking soda

Cold water

Ice 

3 Tbs. olive oil 

1 ½ tsp. Fine sea salt

1 Tbs. finely-chopped fir needles

1 tsp. Smoked paprika

Fine zest from one orange

Directions: Bring the water to boil in a deep pot, then slowly sprinkle in the baking soda (it will bubble a lot!)  Add in the hazelnuts and boil for 4 minutes. Meanwhile, set up a bowl full of ice water. Strain the hazelnuts and plunge them into the ice water. Drain and rub in a clean dishtowel to remove the skins. Let dry. Toss the filberts with the olive oil, sea salt, fir needles, and smoked paprika. Toast in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat until the nuts are lightly browned. Remove from heat and stir in the orange zest. Spread out on a cool plate to dry completely, then enjoy. 

Huckleberry Red Wine Chorizo

½ lb Smoked Spanish Chorizo, sliced into ½” thick pieces

2 Tbs. olive oil

1 c. red wine

1 c. frozen huckleberries 

¼ c. honey

Directions: Heat oil in a small saucepan. Add the chorizo and fry until crisp on both sides, 1-2 minutes. Add the wine,  huckleberries, and honey and let simmer until the sauce has thickened. 

Pine Patatas Bravas

Fresh pine branches

3 red-skinned potatoes

3 Tbs. olive oil

Salt and pepper 

Directions: Preheat the oven to 400F. Scrub the potatoes clean and cut into 1” chunks. Toss with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Line a baking pan with the pine branches and spread the potatoes on top. Roast with the fan on until the potatoes are browned but tender, about 20 minutes.

Mustard and Bay Marinated Mushrooms

1 lb mushrooms (chanterelles are great!!) 

¼ c. olive oil 

¼ c. sherry vinegar

¼ c. diced red onion

5 sprigs fresh thyme

5 fresh bay leaves 

1 tsp. Brown mustard seeds

½ tsp. Salt 

Directions: Bring a large pot of water to boil and salt it like the sea. Boil mushrooms antil just tender, about 3 minutes. Drain well. Add to a sterilized jar, then add the rest of the ingredients. Seal and store in the fridge. Let mellow for a couple of days before eating, then consume within a week. 

Pine Nut Sardines: 

2 tins whole sardines in light oil 

2 Tbs. currants

2 Tbs. pine nuts

½ c. fresh parsley

Zest from 1 lemon

2 Tbs. panko bread crumbs

1 lemon

Directions: Preheat the oven to 400F. Toast the pine nuts in a dry skillet over medium heat. Chop the toasted pine nuts with the raisins, parsley, and lemon zest. Drain the sardines and stuff them with the mixture. Lay the sardines out on a parchment-lined baking paper. Season with salt and pepper, then sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Cook until the breadcrumbs are browned, about 10 minutes. Serve with a sprinkle of lemon juice. 

Membrillo (Quince Paste) 

1.25 lb quince

⅔ c. water

½ lemon, juiced

2  c. sugar

Pinch of salt 

Directions: Peel the quinces, then chop and core them. Add the quince slices and lemon juice to a medium saucepan and add the water. Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook until the quince is very soft. Drain, then grind it in a food processor or blender until it is similar to applesauce. Add the puree to a heavy-bottomed pot and add the sugar and salt. Bring to a low boil, then simmer over low heat. Keep cooking, stirring often, until it thickens into a sticky paste that’s reddish in color and reaches 220F. At this point, it’s ready to pour into a lightly-oiled bowl or mold until it cools completely, then refrigerate for 24-48 hours to fully set. Slice and serve!

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