All That Is Gold Does Not Glitter: May Wine Pear Tart

Gold’s bright shine, workability, weight, and rarity have made it the definition of wealth and value since time immemorial. It seems that humans have often strived after it, to their detriment. The poor maiden in the classic fairytale about Rumplestiltskin nearly lost her first born child to a trickster imp who had helped her secure her place in the royal household by spinning three rooms of straw into gold. King Midas was once blessed by Bacchus so that everything he touched would turn to gold. (He didn’t realize that that would include his food, his drink, and even his daughter.) His new-found power of gold left him isolated and starving. 

Even beyond fairy tales, gold has a significant dark side. The ancient Incas in central America viewed gold as sacred and used it for spiritual purposes, but upon the arrival of the Spanish in 1532 they were shown just how far greed for gold could go, with a great battle and the death of many people and much of their culture. Ancient alchemists spent years and years trying to transform lesser base metals into gold, which, according to the principles of alchemy, was a physical endeavor as well as a spiritual one. Some say that this endeavor was the death of true alchemy; that greed for gold overshadowed the base teachings of Alchemy and its importance as a spiritual practice, steeped in symbolism and layered with metaphors. 

Gold has come to represent absolute wealth and beauty, but also the greed and folly of humankind. Perhaps nothing represents that quite as well as the concept of “faerie gold.” Surely you’ve heard stories about faeries, imps, and leprechauns giving shining gold to a human, only to have it turn to dust or rubbish the moment that human tries to spend it. It’s notoriously unreliable but incredibly alluring in the hand of the faerie, perhaps a reflection of the darkness that gold brings forth in those who seek it for material gain. 

That’s why my own search for gold leads me to ephemeral delights - the gold of buttered sweet corn or perfectly baked biscuits, or, in this case, saffron-infused poached pears. This gold is meant to be given, to be shared, with no ulterior motives and for the purpose of gifting, not tricking others into helping you acquire more wealth. In some sense, this is the purest gold there is: gold rooted in community, in wonder, and in generosity. 

The traditions that accompany May Day are some of my absolute favorites. I grew up creating little baskets on the last day of April, then my family would get up extra early on May 1st to go gather wildflowers and assemble little bouquets. We’d hop in a warm car and go from house to house in our neighborhood, sneaking up to the door and hanging the flowers on it, then knocking and running for our lives for fear of being caught (which always resulted in kisses.) It was the perfect balance of kindness and mischief - a sweet spot that has stuck with me throughout my life. I love notorious do-gooding and “gutenpranks” (borrowed from the TV show “The Office.”)  That is the energy of gold I feel: that there are equal parts mischief and allure held within its shining surface. This tart is the perfect culmination of the good things about gold; it’s filled with delicious and mystical magic, but disappears quickly into the eager bellies of anyone who smells its divine fragrance. It’s infused with May Wine, which is wine that has been steeped with the dried stalks of sweet woodruff overnight, which imparts an unusual and bewitching flavor reminiscent of sweet hay and tonka beans. Right now the sweet woodruff in my garden is blooming, reminding me of the beautiful ephemerality of spring and of this special golden tart. 

Golden May Wine Pear Tart: 

This is an extraordinarily delicious recipe - sweet woodruff infused wine gives these golden pears a delightful flavor, which pairs perfectly with a tender frangipane filling. This recipe is also gluten-free and sweetened only with honey! I hope you enjoy it as much as I did. 

Ingredients for Poached Pears:  

6 firm bosc pears 

1 bottle May Wine (see note below) 

1/2 c. honey

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

1 pinch saffron threads

Directions: 

1. In a large pot, bring the wine and honey to a simmer. Scrape in the vanilla seeds and discard the pod. Add the saffron. Let simmer for a couple of minutes. 

2. Meanwhile, peel the pears. You should use very firm pears for this recipe. Bosc pears work best. 

3. Gently lower the pears into the liquid, adding water as needed to make sure they are covered. 

4. Simmer until the pears are tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. Cover the pot and let the pears sit in the syrup in the fridge overnight. (optional - makes the flavor more intense.) 

5. Remove the pears from the liquid and set aside in a covered bowl. Bring the liquid to a boil and simmer until it’s thickened into a syrup. Set aside. 

Pastry crust: 

1/2 c. almond flour

3/4 c. rice flour

3/4 c. tapioca starch

1/4 tsp. salt

1/3 c. palm oil shortening

3 Tbs. ice cold water

1 egg yolk

1/2 tsp. vinegar

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 375F. Mix together the flours, then cut in the shortening until the mixture is the texture of breadcrumbs. 

2. Beat the egg yolk with the water and vinegar. Add 2 Tbs. of this mixture to the flour mixture and mix well. If the dough sticks together, move on to step 3. If it’s still crumbly, add another 1-2 Tbs. of the liquid and mix again. You won’t use all of the egg mixture. 

3. Press the dough into the bottom and sides of a tart pan with a removable bottom. Prick the bottom with a fork. Place in the freezer for 30 minutes, then line the crust with parchment paper and fill with beans or rice. 

4. Bake for 20 minutes, then look under the parchment paper. If the crust still looks “wet”, bake a few more minutes. Remove from oven and let cool while you prepare the filling. 

Frangipane Filling: 

6 Tbs. vegan butter or palm oil shortening

1/3 c. honey

1 c. almond meal

2 Tbs. rice flour

1 Tbs. tapioca starch

2 eggs

1 tsp. vanilla extract

2 tsp. almond extract

Directions: 

1. Beat the shortening and honey until smooth. Add the almonds, rice flour, and tapioca starch and blend until crumbly. Add the eggs and mix until the mixture is smooth. Add the extracts, then pour the filling into the pre-baked tart shell. Arrange pears as listed above. 

2. Bake at 350F for 45-50 minutes or until the tarts are puffed and golden. Cool, then brush with the reserved pear syrup. 

May Wine: 

To make May Wine, simply steep 1/4 c. Sweet Woodruff in a bottle of riesling or rose overnight, then strain.

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