Hidden Winter Wonders and a Shakshuka Breakfast
If you’re looking for a hearty savory breakfast, this one’s got you covered! Delicious spices, zesty watercress, and hot eggs simmered in tomatoes and peppers…all scooped up with a crusty bread. It’s the perfect start to a winter’s day!
New to foraging? Learn more about ethical and safe foraging (plus how to get started) here!
When the scrublands are dusted in snow, the brambles barren, the landscape the colors of withered gold and white, it may seem as if the fresh greens of spring are still ages away -- almost too far to even think about. And yet, I smile as my boots crunch through the thin coating of ice in shallow puddles as I hike up a familiar trail. I’m headed to a little spring I know about, where pure water from deep within the earth rises to the surface. It’s here that I know I will find what I’m looking for. Sure enough, as I round the big bend in the trail, I see a verdant carpet of green shimmering beneath ice as clear as a windowpane. I break away a portion of ice and pluck a leaf out of the chilly water. It is pungent and refreshing and just a bit sweet and I know I’ve found an old friend: watercress.
Watercress is one of few greens that can be foraged in the cold days of winter; look for it in moving streams or springs that don’t freeze over. Even when all other tender greens are buried by snow or withered by frost, watercress persists. It drinks the icy-cold water flowing from the depths of the earth as it hides under the glassy sheet above, an irregularity in the pattern of other plants this time of year. Surely a plant with that kind of fortitude must be magical!
If you set out to find your own patch, be mindful of where you forage it to avoid any contamination, then wash it immediately in clean cold water. I prefer to harvest it from natural springs, since I can see where clean water bubbles out of the earth just feet beyond where I am gathering. It’s going to add the perfect punch of flavor to a delightful winter breakfast. As I hike back out, my mind starts to wander. Something savory, maybe with the bright color of tomatoes. Something with a bit of spice. Eggs cooked with runny yolks. Shaksuka.
This classic Middle Eastern/North African dish has become a favorite here in the West Coast of the U.S. Why? Well, you start with a flavorful tomato sauce and cook eggs in it. Who wouldn’t want a scoop of that on some nice crusty bread for breakfast?? This time of year, sweet pastries can get a bit overwhelming, so a spiced and savory breakfast is always appreciated. I added a little Pacific Northwest flavor to this recipe by using my own foraged ‘Hedge’ spice blend, and topping the dish with freshly-foraged watercress, which lends a spicy bite and a bit of crunch. It’s the perfect fusion of flavors - a little from here, a little from far away, a lot of flavor and a great way to kick off an adventure-filled winter day!
Shakshuka means literally “a mixture” (not unlike “breakfast hash” here in the States.) There are many versions of this traditional dish, and many more that have been given a contemporary or exotic twist. Here’s mine:
Ingredients:
2 Tbs. olive oil
1 red onion, diced
1 red bell pepper, seeded and sliced thinly
¾ tsp. Cumin
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 ½ tsp. Paprika
1 Tbs. brown sugar
2 Tbs. lemon juice
1 ?? oz can diced tomatoes (large)
1 bay leaf
6 large eggs
Homemade Hedge spice, to taste (or use za’atar seasoning)
Large handful of clean, fresh watercress
Directions:
Heat olive oil in a cast iron skillet over medium heat. Add chopped onion and cumin and cook, stirring often, until the onion is translucent. Add garlic and spices and cook for one minute more. Add the red bell peppers and cook until they are soft and roasted, about 10 minutes more.
Pour in the can of tomatoes and keep stirring, breaking down any large chunks with a large spoon. Add a little salt and pepper then bring the sauce to a gentle simmer. Cook until the sauce has reduced and thickened to about the consistency of marinara sauce.
Use your spoon to make small indentations in the sauce and carefully crack an egg into each well. Cover the pan with a lid and cook for another 5 minutes (for very runny yolks) to 8 minutes (for more set eggs).
Give the pan a good sprinkle of Hedge Spice Mix and sprinkle the watercress around the eggs. Serve immediately with some pita bread or sourdough.
*A note: typically it’s not recommended to cook acidic foods like tomatoes in cast iron pans, as they can erode through the protective seasoning. I’ve found that this recipe spends so little time in the pan it is fine. If you do find your pan’s seasoning dulled, a great way to re-season your pan is to use it to fry something in oil!
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Join me for a little winter night magic as we bake this cake full of rich seasonal flavors and black cocoa!