Wild Dawn and Truffled Scotch Eggs
I’m not normally a big fan of atmospheric lighting. I like to see what I am doing in the detail that only a well-lit space provides. I fill my lamps with daylight bulbs and cozy up to windows. But something shifts in me in winter, when I happily sit in a candle-lit room, watching the gradual change in the sky from inky black to soft blue-grey, those magical moments of pre-dawn as the world awakes in little restless increments, when my dog sneaks onto the bed for early morning cuddles as I watch the rustling of the quail in the vine-covered bush outside my window, little heads bobbing in that periwinkle glow. Snuggled happily into my warm bed, I drink in that half-light with every moment, knowing that soon the spell will be broken, soon day will arrive and bring with it the desire to move and work and eat.
But here in this half-light, I can just be. I am the rustling of winds. I am the soft brown fur. I am the landscape itself, melted softly into shadows, slowly waking with a faint air of anticipation. Here in this liminal light, there are no lines as I feel my breathing sync up with my dog’s gentle respiration. The world breathes in and out, the trees echoing that slow drum beat as they wave in the wind, their branches hugging the last wisps of the night.
A song comes to mind in this moment of wild becoming. A close friend of mine once sent it to me, saying it reminded him of me. It gives me goosebumps every time I listen, feeling the ancient prickle of fur covering my body, blending me into the wild woods as seamlessly as the sky lightens in the morning. The final verse hits just as the first rays of sunlight illuminate the rose hips and rustling feathers:
“And now my fur has turned to skin
And I've been quickly ushered in
To a world that I confess I do not know
But I still dream of running careless through the snow
And through the howlin' winds that blow
Across the ancient distant flow
And fill our bodies up like water till we know”
As the next song begins on my playlist, I am once again filled with emotion. Suddenly I am transported to the night of a summer solstice, listening to the strumming of string instruments in person. There with me was a man who could see the wild in my blood, who I couldn’t get off my mind but had been keeping at a distance out of the fear of being owned, the loss of my chance to make an impression on this new place as myself, not the accessory to anyone else. I was afraid that he would try to own me as so many have tried in the past, to fall in love with the fire in my eyes while simultaneously trying to dampen it.
But on that warm solstice night I finally saw, the way he looked at me was not with hunger or a need for light. He looked at me with play, and I surrendered. It was during this song that I something in me shifted and my body and mind, as one, said: yes. No more holding back out of fear. I was ready to dive in fully. I turned around to dance with this man who fascinated me with his own gentle wildness - one that compelled him to hold me just so, comfortably firm but with room for play. When he led me on the dance floor, I never felt pressured to move in any particular way. Instead, every movement was in invitation, an opportunity for collaboration and play. From that night I remember the amber tones of the music reverberating through us, the feeling of his arm around my waist, his stormy eyes echoing the sparks I felt in my chest. With wild tenderness, we danced:
Lady on the water, make me rich, make me poor
Lay your flowers at my door
Lady on the water, bring me branches, bring me twine
Graft my heart upon the vine
With your wine down my feathers, as the cock crows given time
Here, years later, in the depths of winter, fuzzy memories of that solstice night warm me on this winter morning as I feel him stir, next to me. I know he won’t wake until the sun rays move over the hills to reach us. Dawn is my time to melt into the monotone world of potential and become whatever wildness I need to feel today.
Truffled Potato Scotch Eggs:
When I do get moving, I love making a special breakfast on these slow winter mornings. Truffles are one of my favorite ways to infuse a little wilderness into any meal. They are incredibly pungent, which means that you don’t even need to use truffles in a recipe to get their flavor. You can simply place them on a paper towel in an airtight container with eggs, sliced butter, or cream in a cup and by morning those truffle fumes will have soaked right in. (Then you can use the truffles for something else - like homemade white truffle oil.) Truffles often feel to me like the essence of wildness. There’s a distinctly earthy and funky pungency that at first sniff can be overwhelming to the senses. But then as your brain gets used to that lightning bolt of scent, you may find yourself craving it like I do. Each variety of truffles has a distinct flavor; generally, black truffles are a little more earthy (and sometimes even floral), whilst the white ones are more cheesy and something I can only describe as “electric.” Any kind of fresh truffle will work for this recipe. I like to prepare the mashed potatoes the evening before (or even just use leftovers from dinner) and set up the truffles to infuse. Then breakfast comes together quickly, a delightful start to the day after that luscious dawn dreaming.
A crisp coating of fried breadcrumbs. Creamy mashed potatoes. A truffled egg, with perfectly oozing golden yolk. Some lemon-dressed greens to cut the richness. A perfectly wild winter breakfast. I used this recipe as inspiration for these vegetarian treats, since truffles and starchy vegetables like potatoes are such a delicious combination. Makes 4.
Ingredients:
1-5 fresh truffles (A huge thanks to my friends at https://truffledogcompany.com for getting me some to play with! They even sent me a picture of the sweet dog that found them. :) )
6 eggs
1/3 c. butter
¼ c. cream
½ c. grated parmesan
Salt, to taste
½ c. plain flour
1 c. panko breadcrumbs
Pan of vegetable oil
3 c. mashed starchy potatoes
1 Tbs. finely-chopped wild herbs or parsley
Fresh greens
1 lemon
Directions:
In the evening, place the eggs, sliced butter, cream in a cup, and truffles on a paper towel into an airtight container. Seal, and place it into the fridge. Cook and mash your potatoes now if you’re not using leftovers.
In the morning, bring a large pot of water to boil. While you’re waiting, place the mashed potatoes into a medium bowl. Melt the butter and add it, along with the cream and finely-grated parmesan. Mix in the finely-chopped herbs. Mix well, then set aside to cool.
When the water comes to a boil, gently lower in four of the eggs into the water and boil for 7 minutes. Meanwhile, get a bowl of ice water ready. Once 7 minutes have passed, scoop the eggs from the boiling water into the ice water. Once they have cooled to the touch, shell them and set aside.
Divide the mashed potatoes into four equal portions. Lightly flour your non-dominant hand and make a flat disk of potato on it. Place a peeled egg on it and very gently wrap the egg in the potato mixture, making it as even as possible.
Once each egg is covered, beat the remaining two eggs in a small bowl, then set out the flour and breadcrumbs in separate bowls as well. Heat at least 3” of vegetable oil in a deep pan over medium heat until it reaches 350F.
Gently roll the potato-covered egg in flour, then dunk it in the beaten eggs to coat. Roll it in the breadcrumbs, getting as many to stick as possible as you gently hold the egg in your hand. Repeat the egg and breadcrumb dips one more time, then do the next egg. Once each has been thoroughly coated and the oil is up to temperature, carefully lower each egg into the oil, cooking two at a time. Cook for 2-3 minutes, gently flipping the eggs to get the outsides to brown evenly, then remove and strain on paper towels.
Serve warm, with some fresh greens dressed with lemon juice to cut through the richness. This makes a wonderful breakfast, brunch, or lunch dish! And remember: your truffles can now be used in another recipe, so definitely do not discard them!
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Join me for a little winter night magic as we bake this cake full of rich seasonal flavors and black cocoa!