The Bread of the Times: Yarrow and Carrot Focaccia Art

Do you ever notice a trend and think “this is going to define this moment in history” ? That’s how the focaccia art that’s been sweeping social media feels to me right now. I just have a feeling we’re going to remember this particular trend far into the future as an emblem of all that we are collectively craving right now. It’s the intersection of slow food and quick baking, of sustenance and art, of decadence and simplicity. I think you’ll love this easy recipe for vibrant, showstopper bread that is infused with the strength of yarrow, the clarity of carrot, and the creativity of the baker - even if it’s your very first time ever making bread. It’s ultimate comfort food and ultimate comfort baking too. Stick some yarrow in a jar of oil, stick some carrots in the blender, stick some flour into a bowl, stick some dough in the fridge. Then scrounge around for whatever veggies or herbs are hiding in your kitchen or garden and settle in to enjoy the pleasure of decorating something truly fortifying. This bread is unbelievably soft and pillowy; I particularly love it as a sponge for delicious salad dressing or dipping sauce!

New to foraging? Learn more about ethical and safe foraging (plus how to get started) here!

If you’re reading this in July 2020, you’re probably aware of the heaviness and stress of this year so far. The first few paragraphs may be triggering, so go ahead and just skip them if you want to. Scroll until you see the “It’s safe to start here!” sign. :) 2020 has been a year for the history books, and as I write this, we’re just barely halfway through. We are in the midst of a pandemic on a scale that nobody still living has witnessed before. Most of the country has been in some form of isolation since March, and those of us who are high-risk or have elderly family members have been in strict quarantine, only seeing the faces of the people we are living with. Loneliness and isolation set in for some; tensions rise for others. Add to that a powerful civil rights movement and a lot of racial tension, and then top it all off with an upcoming election and the political unrest that accompanies it. Never have I witnessed our country more divided, with gun-toting “patriots” protesting… the virus? Wearing masks? And masses of BIPOC and allies braving the risk of infection and brutality of a militarized police force just to fight for the freedom they should never have had to ask for. Infection rates skyrocketing. Fear. Heartbreak. A lot of new and resurfacing trauma. Really being present in this chaos feels heavy, heavy, heavy. 

It’s safe to start here! 

“Look for the helpers” has become a mantra I have clung to when I’m overwhelmed with the news cycles. It’s true, there are always helpers. There are the medical professionals bravely suiting up to fight something they’ve never seen before. There are the stands of free food and water for protestors, and of course the protesters themselves. There’s my cousin, dedicating his days to running aid to the various protests at the heart of this movement in Minneapolis. A friend who was assaulted for standing between an aggressive white supremacist and the people of color she was there to support. There are the social justice warriors pushing for political action. The LGBTQIA+ community showing up in force to support other marginalized people rather than carry on with the usual Pride month festivities. And then, there are the soothers, the healers, the peace in the storm. 

Everyone seems to be looking for comfort. When I feel frustrated that my illness and disability are keeping me from joining the protests and vigils, I remind myself that a movement like this takes all kinds of people, and that the helpers around the edges take many forms. Creating that safe space, that rest stop, is so very needed right now. This year is a marathon, not a sprint. And the only way we collectively can continue to push forward is to take the necessary time to re-charge and process the emotional weight we have shouldered. 

This is an odd segue, but stick with me: my favorite part of my art history classes in college was learning how the famous art movements of history were a response to what was happening culturally at the time. How the Industrial Revolution sparked futurism and cubism, but also art nouveau, which was a return to the beautiful fluidity of nature, to give an example. So, as an artist, it makes sense that right now I’d be watching the helpers and also the creatives. The music. The paintings. The poetry. The food. 

Normally food trends come and go, part of our endless search for newness and novelty. But the “trends” that are surfacing this year carry a lot more weight with them. They have transcended mere passing fads to become markers of what we are all craving during this tumultuous time. 

Here’s what I see: people learning how to garden, how to make jam, how to pickle. More crafts and art projects. Bread. Lots and lots of bread. (And resulting flour and yeast shortages.) The anxiety of an unknown and unstable future has been pushing people towards an exploration of feeling more self-sustaining, of learning the skills of the past so that we can feel rooted in the future. The craving for connection pulls us to the earth, to watching the miracle of seeds sprouting and discovering the bounty in the wild woods. And our deep desire for comfort manifests itself in baking, particularly making bread. The smell of freshly-baked bread wafting through one’s home is magic in a time like this. 

At the intersection of all of this is a trend that’s gone viral, that I predict will be a sort of emblematic memory of our collective experience right here, and right now. I’m talking about focaccia bread decorated in beautiful ways with herbs and scraps of vegetables. I hope that the creative baker that started it knows that she is spreading so much more than an idea to build on; she is spreading comfort in a world desperate for it. I’ve seen focaccia that looks like a bouquet of flowers, focaccia that mimics famous paintings, focaccia covered in textural patterns. Herbs become brushstrokes and vibrant vegetables become pigments. To me, this is the food of this year, of this experience. Will you join me in partaking in the comfort it offers? 

This is a rest stop, a moment of peace. A time to focus on your senses, hands in soft dough, free-flowing creative expression, the smell of roasted vegetables and bread baking. Lift off any shame you feel about not fighting for progress constantly. You deserve a break. You need a break. You are doing the best you can. 

The secret ingredient in my bread recipe is yarrow, a wild herb known for protection and healing. Legend says that Achilles was dipped into a bath of yarrow-infused water by his mother as a baby, and that is what made him invincible except for his heel, which did not touch the water because his mother was holding it. Medicinally, yarrow is a powerhouse of usefulness; it can help to stop bleeding, acts as an antihistamine with bites or stings, helps digestion, and so much more. It’s also a familiar friend just about everywhere you go. Yarrow can be found on all continents except Antarctica, and loves growing in sandy beaches, compacted soil, lush gardens, and even through sidewalks. It has a slightly bitter, herbaceous flavor that varies drastically depending on environment. Coastal yarrow is mild, with anise undertones, while the smaller yarrow that grows in the mountains of Idaho is bitter and pungent. Adjust the amount you use based on the strength of flavor. The bread is for tenderness, but the yarrow is for toughness. I like to infuse a small handful  in olive oil for a day or two, but you can also just sprinkle a little dried yarrow on top of your bread instead. 

I’ve made another change to the classic recipe by tossing in a couple of carrots. Symbolism can be such a powerful thing when done with intention. Many of us grew up hearing that carrots (with their high vitamin E content) were good for eyesight, so in this bread they represent clarity of vision, being able to see through the cloud of manipulating media to what is really happening. Carrots also represent groundedness. The sweetness of the earth. The powerful stability and support we can feel when our bare feet touch the ground and we tune in and get centered. Finally, the carrots give this recipe a beautiful orange-yellow color. Sunshine. Hope. 

This bread itself is easy, a fantastic recipe for a novice bread baker. (I based it off of this “ridiculously easy focaccia bread” recipe, but made quite a few changes as described above!) You’ll be surprised at how quickly it comes together! No proofing, no kneading, no stress. Instead, it creates a rhythm, spaces between each step, room for relaxing. That gives you time to dive into decorating it as intensely as you want, which results in a stunning bread that also happens to taste amazing. I love the cheerful orange-yellow color of this bread too, which it gets from turmeric and carrots. The big secret of successful focaccia is time: the dough will need to hang out in the fridge overnight, then relax on the counter for a good two hours before baking. 

Ingredients: 

4 c. all-purpose or bread flour

2 tsp. Sea salt

1 packet instant yeast (2 ¼ tsp.) 

2 tsp. Turmeric powder 

1 tsp. Dried basil

1 tsp. Garlic powder 

2 ½ c. carrot puree

2 Tbs. yarrow-infused olive oil 

Extra olive oil, to drizzle

Extra sea salt

A variety of herbs or vegetables to decorate with

Directions: 

1. Whisk together the flour, salt, herbs and spices, and yeast in a large bowl. Add the carrot puree and yarrow-infused oil. Stir with a sturdy spoon or in a stand mixer with a dough hook until everything is completely mixed and there are no pockets of flour. The dough should be soft and sticky. (If it isn’t, add a little more water early on in the mixing process.) Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. 

2. Prepare a large cooking sheet by lining it with parchment paper. Carefully tip the dough out onto the pan (you don’t want to deflate any of those lovely bubbles!) Use your fingers to gently stretch the dough into a large oval about ½” thick.  Take your time decorating it however you desire. Brush everything gently with more yarrow oil, then sprinkle it with sea salt and any herbs you’d like. 

3. Cover with a slightly damp kitchen towel or plastic wrap and allow to rise for about two hours, or until nice and puffy. 

4. Preheat your oven to 425F and bake for 25-35 minutes, or until the bottom is crisp and the top is slightly golden. Carefully transfer the bread to a cooling rack. Enjoy warm or at room temperature. 

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