Autumn’s Softening: Avocado Toast with Sauteed Wild Greens, Miso Eggs, and Poppyseeds

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I love the shifting in energy I feel with the arrival of the first fall rains. Everything seems to soften. The cracks in the earth are filled with rainwater and give life to new sprouts that will hang on until the ground once again hardens, this time with frost. My normally-crunchy hike through the forests grows soft and gentle as my footsteps are cushioned with decaying leaves. The air, slightly silky with moisture, even feels softer to breathe. Ah, late fall has arrived. 

I feel these changes in my own spirit, but they are easy to recognize in the plants I gather too. In late summer here in the high desert of Idaho, the greens grow tough and fibrous in the dry air and hot temperatures… but after the rains arrive, new growth appears like a second spring, bright light green in contrast to the tougher leaves that held on through the drought. This is a wonderful time to forage for nettle, dandelions, mallow, and other wild or feral greens. Let their softness nourish your body as the cool rainy walk you take to forage them instills your soul with the delightful nostalgic melancholy that seems to be tucked away into shadows along the path. 

There’s a bittersweet edge to the end of fall; though I have been out of school for many years now, I still remember the excitement and accompanying dread of returning to school. Do you also gaze back longingly at a summer that seemed to pass in a blink? Or a fall that passed far too quickly?  There will always be adventures calling back with the reminder that I didn’t quite fill out my summertime wish list. One simple little ritual I like to do when those feelings wash over me is to write down the missed opportunities or forgotten plans, then carefully put them to rest in a box to re-visit on the opposite side of the year. There’s something comforting about tucking those dreams in thoughtfully, allowing them the same hibernation that feels natural in the cycles around us. 

This is the season of bittersweet nostalgia, remembering loved ones lost and distant memories. There’s a deep beauty to that melancholy, as long as it’s kept in balance. For while many things are coming to rest, there is still deep, deep wonder to absorb! Seedpods rattle with bounty to be processed - ideally on a dark evening in front of a fire or perhaps just a candle. It takes time to shake poppyseeds from their elegant seed heads or delicately pull wild mustard seeds from long pods. The woods drip and glisten and the feeling of a soft sweater against the skin can be the perfect comfort on a refreshing damp day! 

Feel the melancholy and the nostalgia and the wistfulness. See the beauty in the shadows, how they add depth to life: they are the umami of emotions. Then, get outside and bask in the wonders of the season and soak up all of the goodness you can because the frosts will arrive before you know it. Eat young greens and matured seeds and things that fill your belly with energy to propel you out into those beautiful late fall woods.

I find myself settling into darkening evenings with books more often these days, and one of my favorite authors to turn to is Nigel Slater. The way he writes about fall and winter foods is akin to ancient poetry about a mysterious beloved; he writes in mouthwatering detail, in emotion, and in pure love for the place that food holds in our lives. 

From the intro to Greenfeast Autumn and Winter : “This is also the season for ‘something on toast.’ By toast I mean not only bread cut thick and rough-edged, but toasted bagels and crumpets, muffins and naan. Any soft dough that will crisp under the broiler and will support a cargo of vegetables or is happy to be slathered with a thick wave of creme fraiche or hummus, roast vegetables, or perhaps cheese to melt and bubble.” 

Ah, Nigel, I couldn’t agree with you more. Here’s to toast (seedy and gluten-free), to depth of flavor (hello, miso eggs!), to the softness of new greens (whether weed or wild), and to the stored energy of carefully-gathered seeds (poppyseeds here.) This satisfying toast makes a wonderful breakfast, lunch, or snack this time of year. Pair it with some hot tea and you’ll feel like you are dining on the essence of early winter itself.  

Ingredients: 

Artisan bread of choice (gluten free recipe below) 

Ripe avocado

Sauteed wild greens (below) 

Miso eggs (below) 

Poppyseeds

Lemon 

Salt and pepper to taste

Butter, optional 

Directions: 

1. Make the miso eggs a few days ahead of time. Start cooking your wild greens as you get the rest of your ingredients prepared. 

2. Toast your bread and spread with butter. Top with the cooked wild greens and thin slices of avocado. Slice each miso egg into 3 slices and place them on top of the toast slices. Season with salt and pepper and a good sprinkle lemon zest and poppyseeds for crunch! Serve warm with a cup of something hot to sip. 

Make Ahead: Miso Eggs

It’s difficult to describe just how richly delicious these eggs are. They have a slightly salty flavor, with a pleasant muted acidity and a big hit of craveworthy umami. At first bite they may taste like a sharp cheese but the flavor soon blooms into something unlike anything else. These are based on a miso egg served at Izakaya Meiji in Eugene, Oregon. I developed this recipe after extensive testing out of pure desperation to fix an unshakeable craving once I moved away (and literal dreams about those precious umami-bombs.) This is my best approximation, and I think you will love them as much as I do! They’ll need to cure for at least three days, so plan ahead. 

Ingredients: 

6 eggs, at room temperature (it’s best if they are at least a week old)

½ c. sweet white miso (I use chickpea miso) 

¾  c. ponzu

1 Tbs. lemon juice 

Directions: 

1. Fill a medium pot with 2” of water and bring to a boil. Gently lower in the eggs and set a timer for 8 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare a bowl of ice water. 

2. As soon as the timer rings, use a slotted spoon to transfer the eggs to the ice water. Once they are cool enough to handle, carefully peel them under the water. 

3. Mix the miso and ponzu together to form a paste. Add the hard boiled eggs to a zip-top bag and add the mixture, gently squishing to make sure all of the eggs have an even coating. Squeeze the air out of the bag and seal it well. 

4. Let the bag marinade in the fridge for 3 days, turning it every day to mix evenly. 

Wild Greens: 

This simple process is a great way to make use of any wild or weedy edible greens you can find this time of year. I particularly like wild mallow leaves (Malva neglecta), which are hardy garden invaders that can be found late into summer and fall until the ground starts freezing, though keep your eyes peeled for nettles, dandelion, lamb’s quarters, or other wild greens in your area. If you are gathering tender young leaves that pop up after the rains, you can simply sautee them with the olive oil and onion until tender, then season. Tougher leaves will take a little more cooking, hence the addition of vegetable broth to tenderize. 

Ingredients: 

2 Tbs. olive oil

½ onion, chopped

4 c. fresh greens leaves, washed and sliced into ½” ribbons

1 c. vegetable broth, optional 

1 fresh lemon

Dash of nutmeg

Salt and pepper, to taste

Directions: 

1. Heat a cast iron skillet on medium heat. Add the olive oil and onion and saute until the onion is translucent. Add the fresh mallow leaves, plus about 1 c. of vegetable broth or water.  Simmer until most of the liquid has evaporated. 

2. Add a dash of lemon and season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper. 

Seedy Autumnal Gluten-Free Bread: 

This artisanal gluten-free bread is a hearty and delicious vessel for loaded toast. This recipe makes two loaves; I scaled up to make three as shown in the photos here. Gluten free bread doesn’t last as well as regular bread, so be sure to either gobble it up or freeze it on the day it is made. I love making two loaves: one for me, and one to share. This bread has a delightful and complex flavor thanks to longer fermentation times; plan to start it 24 hours before you plan to eat it so it has time to rise slowly overnight in the fridge. 

Ingredients: 

3 Tbs. dulse seaweed flakes 

½ c. hot water

2 c. (½  lb) white rice flour

2 c. (½ lb) sorghum flour

2 ½ (½ lb) gluten-free oat flour

2 c. (½ lb.) tapioca starch 

2 ½ tsp. Xantham gum 

4 tsp. Active dry yeast 

4 tsp. Sea salt 

1 Tbs. poppyseeds 

1 Tbs. amaranth seeds 

1 Tbs. sesame seeds 

2 Tbs. hemp hearts 

3 c. lukewarm water (plus an half cup if needed) 

¼ c. molasses

4 eggs 

½ c. white rice flour, for dusting 

Directions: 

1. Place the seaweed flakes in a heat-proof bowl and pour hot water over the top. Let sit for 10 minutes. 

2. Whisk together the rice flour, sorghum flour, gluten-free oat flour, tapioca starch, poppyseeds, sesame seeds, hemp hearts, xantham gum, active dry yeast, and sea salt in a large bowl. 

3. Add the soaked dulse and water, the remaining water, molasses, and eggs and mix well with a spoon or stand mixer until combined. Add water as needed. The dough should be fairly wet and sticky. Continue to mix until it is completely cohesive. 

4. Cover the bowl loosely with a piece of saran wrap and allow the dough to rest at room temperature for about 3 hours or  until the dough rises slightly. (It won’t double in size like it would with normal wheat bread.) Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. 

5. Line two cast-iron skillets with parchment paper. Gently scoop the dough out into two even portions, one in each pan. Use damp hands to shape both loaves into two round boules. 

6. Gently cover the bread with overturned bowls and put back in the fridge overnight (or 8-12 hours.) 

7. In the morning, make sure there’s an oven rack right in the middle of the oven. To the side, place an empty metal pot or pan that won’t interfere with the rising bread and is accessible to add water to. Preheat the oven to 450F. It’s best to let the oven preheat for about half an hour. 

8. Pull the shaped loaves out of the fridge and remove the bowls. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for half an hour, while the oven preheats. 

9. Gently moisten the surface of the loaves with water, then sift white rice flour over them. Cut a few slashes in the top with a sharp knife, about ½” down. (Use the knife blade to help them open up a bit.) Put the skillets in the oven and pour 1 c. of hot water in the empty pot or pan. Close the door quickly and bake for about 45 minutes, or until the crust is browned and firm. (The interior of the bread should be 205F.) 

10. Let the bread cool completely before slicing. 

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